Yes, Virgina, that is a real live octopus.

    It was one of the most delicious and surreal dining experiences of my life. Dinner among natives and locals in a seamless dance of drink and eat. We remove our shoes at the door (of course) and climb into a low rise table which has a cooking range right in the middle of. Almost immediately we are served a variety of local fare which I have to inquire about each dish because I don't recognize anything that is put in front of me. It is all clean, flavorful and fresh, fresh, fresh tasting. With in a few bites of some sort of creamed urchin our server appears with a giant wok filled to the brim with an impressive collection of seafood, most of which was still alive. The part that made me the most uneasy was the octopus which was wriggling wildly in its last attempt of life. The gas burner was whisked to high and the herbaceous broth quickly began to boil as I tried not to notice the tentacles of the creature in front of me slowing in what seemed like forever to a still. This may seem upsetting to some, it was in fact upsetting to me (quietly) but I am here to understand a culture, experience a culture, NOT judge. We cook live lobsters, we eat live oysters, we . . . . well I'm trying to understand, but after a few bites of my "seafood casserole" what I would liken to a ciopinno, I had forgotten about the entire horrific slaughter in front of me. The meal was HOT and SPICY but drink was served in LITTLE glasses and NOT refilled. My host instructed me to receive drink in the Korean manner which was with holding your glass in front of you with two hands. Why this is I will still have to inquire. The little amount of drink with meal is something I have noticed since dining in Korea. When I asked about this phenomenon, I was informed that Koreans have a sort of mythological philosophy when it comes to eating: the hotter the food, the spicier the food, the better it is for your body. They also believe drinking is for after the meal because your body will rid itself of all the calories you ingested earlier, easier. Perhaps this is a new diet tactic I will have to try? Dessert was served in a bowl. It was an aromatic liquid of persimmon and cinnamon and was slurped down loudly and quickly. YUM. It tasted like love. There is no "splitting the bill" in Korea, in fact I never even notice a bill or exchange of money it is just magically paid for. My hosts are two Korean women from my school and the headmaster who, as always, said very little. I have noticed in most cases men and women do not socialize much in public. As we abruptly (literally mid sentence) left the table for coffee somewhere else . . .  one of the women that was with me says quietly to me that in Korea they have a saying . .  "if gathering with many women and one man, bring dish."